This image shows a construction worker wearing a blue hard hat and working on repairing or maintaining a brick chimney on a roof. The worker is crouched down and appears to be inspecting or making adjustments to the chimney. The roof is made of wooden shingles, and there is a clear sky in the background.

Chimney repair – A complete Guide

Most people don’t give their chimney much thought – until there’s a problem. Then, it’s suddenly very important! If you’re having issues with your chimney, it’s important to get them fixed as soon as possible. Chimney repair can be a big job, but it doesn’t have to be overwhelming. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about repairing your chimney.

Masonry Chimney 101

A chimney made of masonry can be made out of many materials, including concrete, bricks, mortar, concrete block and concrete block, cast iron and steel, and flue tile.

These materials can be very vulnerable to rainwater damage if they’re not properly installed or maintained.

External factors can cause serious damage to extremely porous chimneys.

Common Chimney Problems

A Chimney is an important part of your home, providing ventilation for your fireplace or stove. It’s also one of the most vulnerable parts of your home, exposed to the elements and subject to wear and tear. Over time, your chimney can develop problems that need to be repaired.

Cracks

Cracks in the crown or firebox can be considered fire hazards under the NFPA.

The reason for this is that smoke from a chimney can contain waste particles from a fire.

The black smoke that comes out of a chimney is

These small particles can build up and accumulate inside cracks in the masonry.

This illustration shows the buildup of a chimney flue. It can cause a fire hazard.

Brick cracks can lead to small areas of carbon buildup and waste particles. Some of these could be flammable.

Creosote (an oily substance) is the real culprit. Creosote (an oily substance) is a very similar substance to soot and can ignite by sparks.

Creosote, a flammable chemical, is formed from smoke and vapors of burning wood.

Please Click Here for a Complete Article about Creosote.

Chimney repair

If creosote buildup is more than 1/4 inch, it’s time to have a chimney cleaned.

Look for cracks in mortar around the chimney and fireplace.

Every day, more than 61 chimney fires are lit in the United States.

Don’t panic if cracks develop in your fireplace or chimney.

Fireplace cracks can be repaired quickly. Fire risk could increase if it is not fixed promptly.

Water Penetration

Water penetration can occur at multiple points.

While water penetration can lead to mold growth, destruction, and other serious consequences,

When water reacts with creosote, it becomes acidic. This accelerates brick and mortar decay in fireplaces and chimneys.

Water can get into the chimney through cracks in the crown or chimney shelf.

This can also happen due to defective flashing at the roof–the to-chimbal junction.

Water damage can occur to exterior mortar and interior walls.

To avoid all these dangers, keep a schedule for chimney inspections. Make sure that there is no water infiltration inside any chimney or fireplace.

These water-repellent treatments (also called “waterproofing”) can keep water from your chimney

Crown of Chimneys Broken

The chimney crown, which is located at the top of a chimney, acts as a shield against a number of dangers.

The crown should have an upward slope that directs water away from the flue edges. This prevents mortar or brick from eroding along the vertical chimney surfaces.

A properly constructed chimney crown should be overhanging, made from Portland cement-based mix.

Faulty Flashing

Flashing is the process of sealing the space between the chimney and the roof to keep rainwater out.

It is basically an expansion joint that’s made from two different materials. It allows the chimney and roof to expand and contract at the right rates, without causing any damage.

Here’s an example of flashing which allows water to enter a house that is under construction.

Incorrect Dimensions

If your Chimney is the incorrect dimensions, it will not function properly. The Chimney should be at least 2 feet taller than anything within a 10-foot radius of it. If it isn’t, you could have serious drafting problems. In addition, the Chimney should have a cap that is at least 3 inches wider than the Chimney opening.

Caps that are too small allow rain and snow to enter the Chimney, which can cause serious damage. If you don’t have a cap, or if yours is the wrong size, call a professional to have one installed.

Chimney Caps

A cap is required to prevent water from entering your chimney. This will prevent birds and squirrels from getting into your chimney opening. This is basically a way to get rid of any clutter in your home, such as leaves.

You can also use a cap to keep your home safe from animals that might enter your chimney and cause a fire. A Chimney cap will also help you save money on your heating bill.

If you live in an area where it snows, you need to make sure that your chimney is clear of any snow or ice. If there is any buildup, it can cause your chimney to collapse.

Chimney Deterioration

Bricks, mortar, and other building materials can be damaged by being left in the elements.

Damage to chimney walls is slowly occurring from external elements

A falling chimney is an indication that it is time to rebuild. Bricks are not viable anymore.

Chimney repair

Leaning Chimneys

Has your chimney been checked by a professional to ensure it is not leaning? A lean chimney can cause serious damage to your property, and even collapse.

This is a list of common problems that can occur with your fireplace or chimney.

It is recommended that chimneys be inspected annually to ensure safety and prevent costly repairs.

Inspect your fireplace and chimney every month to ensure that there are no problems.

A 5-minute annual visual inspection can help you save thousands on chimney and fireplace repairs.

A quick checklist for inspecting chimneys and fireplaces.

Check your fireplace for cracks or loose bricks.

Be sure to check the firebox for cracks or broken bricks.

Make sure the damper is off.

Check the chimney exterior for cracks and damage.

Repair any cracks or damage to your fireplace before you use it again.

Frequently Asked Questions:

1. How often should I have my chimney inspected?

Chimneys should be inspected annually to ensure they are safe and free from obstructions and damage. This regular inspection can help prevent costly repairs.

2. What are the signs of chimney deterioration?

Signs of deterioration include cracks in the mortar or bricks, a leaning structure, and water penetration. If you notice any of these signs, it’s important to consult a professional for repairs.

3. What causes cracks in chimney bricks and mortar?

Cracks can be caused by thermal expansion, moisture penetration, and natural settling of the house. Creosote buildup can also contribute to deterioration if not regularly cleaned.

4. Why is flashing important for my chimney?

Flashing seals the gap between the chimney and roof, preventing water from entering and causing damage. Faulty flashing can lead to water damage in your home.

5. How does the wrong chimney cap affect my chimney?

The wrong size cap can allow rain, snow, and animals into your chimney, leading to blockages and damage. Ensure your cap is appropriately sized to prevent these issues.

6. What should I do if my chimney starts leaning?

A leaning chimney could be a sign of structural failure and poses a serious safety risk. It’s crucial to get a professional evaluation and repair as soon as possible.

This image shows a close-up view of a brick wall undergoing repair or renovation. The wall has areas of damaged and peeling plaster or stucco, revealing the underlying brickwork. A power drill with a drill bit is visible, indicating that the person is likely drilling into the wall, possibly to secure new materials or repair the damaged sections. The image focuses on the textured, weathered surface of the wall and the tools being used to address the issues.

Expert Tips For Successfully Drilling Into Brick: A Step-by-Step Tutorial

Choose The Right Drill Bit

The type of drill bit you’ll need to use will depend on the job you’re planning to do. For most projects, a standard masonry drill bit will suffice. These bits are designed for use with a power drill and will easily bore through brick.

If you’re working with particularly hard bricks or planning to do a lot of drilling, you may want to invest in a carbide-tipped masonry bit. These bits are more expensive than standard masonry bits, but they stay sharper for longer, making them ideal for tougher jobs.

Attach The Drill Bit

Once you’ve selected the right drill bit, it’s time to attach it to your power drill. Make sure the drill is turned off before you begin.

If you’re using a standard masonry bit, simply insert the shank (the un-toothed end) into the drill’s chuck and tighten it until it’s snug. If you’re using a carbide-tipped bit, you’ll need to first insert a pilot drill into the chuck. This is a small drill bit that will create a guide hole for the carbide bit. Once the pilot drill is in place, insert the carbide bit into the pilot drill and tighten both in the chuck.

Prepare The Area

Before you start drilling, take a few moments to prepare the area where you’ll be working. Cover any surfaces nearby that could be damaged by flying debris, and clear away any loose bricks or other obstacles that could get in your way.

Mark The Spot

Once the area is prepared, it’s time to mark the spot where you’ll be drilling. Use a pencil or chalk to draw a dot or X on the brick where you want the hole to be. This will give you a starting point to work from and help ensure that your drill bit doesn’t wander.

Start Drilling

With the drill bit attached and the area prepared, you’re finally ready to start drilling. Put on safety goggles or glasses to protect your eyes, and hold the drill so that the bit is lined up with your mark. Then, switch on the drill and apply steady pressure as you bore into the brick.

If you’re using a standard masonry bit, you shouldn’t have any trouble drilling through the brick. If you’re using a carbide-tipped bit, however, you may need to apply a little more pressure to get started. Once the bit starts biting into the brick, it should drill through relatively easily.

Take Your Time

Drilling through brick isn’t a race, so there’s no need to hurry. Go slowly and steadily, and let the drill do the work. If you push too hard, you risk breaking the drill bit or damaging the bricks.

Drilling through brick can create a lot of dust, so it’s a good idea to wear a dust mask to protect your lungs. If possible, drill outdoors or in a well-ventilated area to minimize the amount of dust you’re exposed to.

How to drill into brick

Monitor The Temperature

Drilling through brick generates a lot of friction, which can cause the drill bit and the bricks themselves to heat up quickly. Keep an eye on the temperature of both, and take a break if either starts to get too hot.

Let The Dust Settles

Once you’ve drilled through the brick, it’s important to let the dust settle before continuing with your project. Wait a few minutes for the dust to settle, then use a vacuum or damp cloth to clean up any remaining debris.

Now that you know how to drill into brick, you can tackle all sorts of projects around your home or office. With the right drill bit and a little patience, you can easily bore through brick to create the perfect hole for your needs.

Use A Level To Keep The Bit Straight

Wearing safety goggles, hold the drill bit at a 90-degree angle to the brick. If necessary, use a hammer to help drive the bit into the brick. Start the drill on low speed and then increase the speed once it has caught. Use a level to keep the drill bit straight as you drill.

Apply Firm, Steady Pressure

As you drill, apply firm, steady pressure. Don’t push too hard or the bit will slip. If the bit starts to slip, reposition it and try again.

Use A Masonry Bit

For best results, use a masonry bit designed for use with brick. These bits have sharp, carbide tips that can cut through brick quickly and easily.

Masonry bits come in a variety of sizes. Choose the size that is appropriate for the job at hand. For example, if you need to drill a large hole, you will need a larger bit than if you only need to make a small hole.

How to drill into brick

Keep Your Hands Clear Of The Drill While It’s In Use

.If you’re not using a drill press, make sure to keep your hands clean of the area where the bit will be exiting the brick.

Wear Protective Gear. You should always wear gloves and safety glasses when working with power tools.

Choose The Right Drill Bit. To drill into brick, you’ll need to use a masonry bit. These bits are made of carbide or diamond and are much harder than standard metal or wood bits.

Mark The Location Of The Hole With A Chalk Line Or Pencil. Use a level to make sure your home is straight, then mark the spot with a chalk line or pencil.

Start Drilling Slowly And Increase Speed Gradually. Apply firm, even pressure as you start drilling. Once the bit has penetrated the surface of the brick, you can increase speed.

Let The Bit Do The Work. Don’t apply too much pressure, as this can cause the bit to slip or break.

Cool, The Bit Frequently. To extend the life of your drill bit, it’s important to keep it cool while you’re working. Every few minutes, stop drilling and allow the bit to cool in a cup of water.

Remove The Dust Regularly. Drilling into brick creates a lot of dust. To avoid breathing in this dust, which can be harmful, make sure to remove it regularly with a vacuum or brush attachment.

Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. What type of drill bit is best for drilling into brick?
    • For drilling into brick, use a masonry drill bit. Carbide-tipped masonry bits are ideal for harder bricks and more frequent drilling.
  2. How do I attach the drill bit to my power drill?
    • Insert the shank of the drill bit into the drill’s chuck and tighten it securely. For carbide-tipped bits, insert a pilot drill first, followed by the carbide bit.
  3. What safety equipment should I wear when drilling into brick?
    • Always wear safety goggles to protect your eyes from debris. Using gloves and a dust mask is also recommended to protect your hands and lungs from brick dust.
  4. How do I ensure the drill bit remains straight during drilling?
    • Start drilling at a low speed to establish the hole, then increase speed. Use a level to maintain the drill bit at a 90-degree angle to the brick surface.
  5. How do I prepare the area before drilling into brick?
    • Clean and clear the area of debris. Mark the drilling spot with chalk or a pencil, and cover nearby surfaces to protect them from dust and debris.
  6. What should I do if the drill bit gets too hot?
    • If the drill bit gets too hot, stop drilling and allow it to cool down. You can dip the bit in water periodically to prevent overheating.
This image shows the exterior wall of a building made of tan-colored bricks. The bricks are arranged in a diagonal pattern, creating a textured surface. There is a small vent or opening visible in the wall, and some dried or dead vegetation is hanging from the wall, adding a natural, weathered element to the scene. The image appears to be taken outdoors, with some trees visible in the background, suggesting this is the exterior of a residential or commercial building.

Critical Warning Signs, How To Detect Masonry And Mortar Failure

Cracking as signs of masonry and mortal failure.

Imagine walking through your neighbourhood and seeing a once-beautiful brick home with crumbling mortar, flaking bricks, and a sagging facade. It’s a sad sight – and a costly one for the homeowner. But with regular masonry maintenance, this fate is entirely preventable. For Ontario homeowners, taking care of masonry isn’t just about preserving your house; it’s about preserving a piece of our shared architectural heritage.

Understanding and Identifying Masonry Issues

Masonry may seem indestructible, but it’s vulnerable to an array of issues, especially in Ontario’s harsh climate:

  • Efflorescence: Those unsightly white stains on your bricks? That’s efflorescence – crystallized salt deposits that can indicate moisture infiltration. Caused by water seeping through porous bricks or degraded mortar.
  • Spalling: If you notice bricks flaking, chipping, or crumbling (spalling), it’s often due to moisture seeping into the bricks and then freezing, expanding, and breaking the brick’s surface. Spalling can also result from improper manufacturing or repeated exposure to aggressive chemicals.
  • Frost Damage: Ontario’s freeze-thaw cycles can be brutal on masonry. When moisture seeps into bricks or mortar and then freezes, it expands, cracking or crumbling the masonry. Telltale signs include cracked bricks, loose mortar, and widening gaps between bricks.

Your Masonry Maintenance Checklist

Preventing masonry problems starts with regular DIY maintenance:

  • Annual Cleaning: Each spring, give your bricks a gentle scrub with a soft-bristled brush and a mild detergent solution (1/2 cup of dish soap per gallon of warm water). Rinse thoroughly with a hose on a low-pressure setting. Never use a pressure washer, which can damage bricks and mortar.
  • Drainage Checks: Ensure your gutters, downspouts, and grading direct water away from your masonry. Check for pooling water or signs of moisture infiltration after heavy rains.
  • Mortar Checks: Each fall, inspect your mortar for signs of crumbling, cracking, or widening gaps. If you can fit a dime into a gap, it’s time for repointing (more on that later).
  • Sealant Refresh: Every 5-7 years, have a professional apply a breathable, water-resistant masonry sealant to protect against moisture infiltration.

The Power of Professional Inspections

Even with diligent DIY maintenance, it’s crucial to have a professional mason inspect your brickwork every 3-5 years. They can spot hidden issues and nip them in the bud before they snowball into costly repairs. In Ontario, it’s especially important to schedule an inspection after a harsh winter or a season of extreme temperature fluctuations, which can accelerate masonry damage.

During an inspection, a professional will:

  • Check for signs of efflorescence, spalling, and frost damage
  • Assess the condition of your mortar and recommend repointing if needed
  • Inspect for structural issues like bowing, sagging, or separated bricks
  • Check for proper drainage and moisture management
  • Recommend any necessary repairs or preventative measures

DIY vs. Pro: Knowing Your Limits

Handy homeowners can tackle minor masonry repairs like replacing a few cracked bricks or spot-repointing small areas of damaged mortar. However, most masonry work is best left to the pros. Improper technique can worsen existing damage and even create new problems.

In particular, always hire a professional for:

  • Structural repairs (e.g., fixing bowing or sagging walls)
  • Extensive repointing (replacing mortar across large areas)
  • Brick replacement spanning large areas
  • Sealing or waterproofing masonry
  • Any repairs requiring scaffolding or specialty equipment

The Cutting Edge of Masonry Repair

When you do need professional repairs, ask about the latest technologies and techniques:

  • Laser Cleaning: This precise, eco-friendly method uses laser light to vaporize stains, paint, and grime without damaging the masonry underneath. It’s ideal for historic brick that may be too fragile for traditional cleaning methods.
  • Tuckpointing: For crumbling mortar, tuckpointing is a two-tone repointing method that gives the illusion of very fine joints, enhancing your brickwork’s appearance. Masons use a mortar dyed to match your bricks for the bulk of the joint, then apply a thin ribbon of contrasting mortar down the center.
  • Breathable Sealants: Modern masonry sealants are designed to repel water while still allowing bricks to “breathe” (release moisture). This prevents the moisture buildup that causes spalling and frost damage. Look for sealants with a 5+ year warranty against water infiltration.

Vetting Your Masonry Contractor

When hiring a mason, look for:

  • Proof of liability insurance and WSIB coverage
  • 5+ years of experience, with a portfolio of similar projects
  • Knowledge of Ontario Building Code requirements for masonry
  • Positive reviews and references from past clients

Key questions to ask:

  • How long have you been in business?
  • Can you provide proof of insurance and WSIB coverage?
  • What experience do you have with projects like mine?
  • Can you walk me through your repair process and timeline?
  • What kind of warranty do you offer on your work?

Winterizing Your Masonry

Ontario’s winters can wreak havoc on masonry. To prevent costly damage:

  • Schedule your annual inspection and any necessary repairs before the first freeze.
  • Ensure your masonry is properly sealed to prevent moisture infiltration.
  • Check that your gutters, downspouts, and grading direct snowmelt away from your foundation.
  • Remove snow accumulation from masonry surfaces to prevent refreezing and moisture damage.
  • In the spring, check for any new cracks, gaps, or spalling caused by freeze-thaw cycles.

The Bottom Line: Maintaining Value and Beauty

Well-maintained masonry doesn’t just boost your home’s curb appeal; it’s a smart financial move. Potential buyers will pay a premium for a home with pristine brickwork, while neglected masonry can deter buyers and drag down your property value.

More importantly, by caring for your masonry, you’re preserving a piece of Ontario’s architectural heritage. Our historic brick homes and buildings are a testament to the craftsmanship and resilience of generations past. By maintaining your masonry, you’re not just protecting your home; you’re honoring the legacy of those who built it.

So whether you’re tuckpointing a Victorian townhouse in Toronto or sealing a mid-century ranch in Windsor, know that your masonry maintenance matters. With regular care and a trusted masonry partner, you can ensure your home stands strong and beautiful for generations to come.


Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. How often should I have my masonry inspected by a professional?
    • It’s recommended to have your masonry inspected by a professional every 3-5 years. However, if you live in an area with harsh winters or extreme temperature fluctuations, like many parts of Ontario, you may want to schedule an inspection more frequently, especially after a particularly severe winter.
  2. Can I use a pressure washer to clean my bricks?
    • No, it’s not advisable to use a pressure washer on your masonry. The high-pressure water can damage bricks and mortar, leading to more severe issues down the line. Instead, use a soft-bristled brush, a mild detergent solution, and a garden hose on a low-pressure setting to gently clean your bricks.
  3. What’s the difference between repointing and tuckpointing?
    • Repointing is the process of removing damaged mortar and replacing it with new mortar to restore the structural integrity of your masonry. Tuckpointing is a specific repointing method that involves using two colors of mortar – one that matches the bricks for the bulk of the joint, and a contrasting color for a thin ribbon down the center. This creates the illusion of very fine joints and enhances the aesthetic appeal of the brickwork.
  4. How can I tell if my masonry needs to be repointed?
    • If you notice crumbling, cracking, or widening gaps in your mortar, it may be time for repointing. A simple test is to try fitting a dime into the mortar gaps. If the dime fits, the gaps are wide enough to warrant repointing. However, it’s always best to have a professional assess your masonry to determine the extent of the damage and the best course of action.
  5. Can I seal my masonry myself, or do I need to hire a professional?
    • While it’s possible to apply masonry sealant yourself, it’s recommended to hire a professional. Proper application requires expertise and specialized equipment to ensure even coverage and optimal protection. A professional will also be able to recommend the best type of sealant for your specific masonry and climate.
  6. What should I do if I notice masonry damage after a harsh winter?
    • If you notice any new cracks, gaps, or spalling in your masonry after a harsh Ontario winter, schedule a professional inspection as soon as possible. Catching and repairing winter damage early can prevent more extensive and costly issues down the road. In the meantime, remove any snow accumulation from your masonry surfaces to prevent further moisture damage.
This image shows the hands of a mason or bricklayer working on constructing a brick wall. The image focuses on the worker's hands, which are calloused and covered in mortar, as they carefully place a brick into the wall. The wall is made of red and brown bricks that are laid in a traditional pattern, with mortar visible between the bricks. The background is slightly blurred, but appears to be a construction site or outdoor area.

The Art of Masonry Restoration: Preserving Ontario’s Heritage Buildings

Ontario’s historic brick and stone buildings are a vital part of our architectural heritage. Over time, even the most well-constructed masonry deteriorates and requires skilled restoration to maintain its integrity and beauty. Unfortunately, not all masonry work is created equal. Inexperienced or poorly trained masons using improper techniques and materials can cause permanent damage to these important structures.

Understanding Our Responsibility

As experienced masons based in the Hamilton, Burlington, and Oakville regions, we believe we have a fiduciary duty to the owners of Ontario’s masonry buildings and to the art of masonry as it has been practiced for thousands of years. This duty involves preserving and restoring both historic and contemporary masonry structures using skills refined over centuries of experimentation and tradition.

Section of a brick wall needing restoration.

At Fix My Brick, we view masonry restoration as both a craft and a responsibility. Our commitment to upholding the highest standards ensures we protect and preserve the masonry buildings that make our communities unique.

The Importance of Proper Repointing

Repointing, the process of renewing the mortar between masonry units, is one of the most critical aspects of any restoration project. Deteriorated mortar joints are not only unsightly but also allow moisture to penetrate the masonry, leading to further damage from Ontario’s harsh freeze-thaw cycles.

To effectively repoint historic masonry, masons must have the knowledge and skill to:

  • Choose Compatible Mortar: Select a mortar that matches the original in strength, composition, and appearance to prevent damage and ensure a seamless repair.
  • Carefully Remove Deteriorated Mortar: Remove old mortar without damaging surrounding bricks, which requires precision and expertise.
  • Install New Mortar Correctly: Apply new mortar using techniques that ensure full contact and prevent moisture infiltration, maintaining the integrity of the structure.
  • Match Joint Profiles and Textures: Recreate the original style of the building by matching the joint profiles and textures, preserving its historic character.

Investing in Quality Masonry Restoration

Choosing a masonry contractor based on the lowest bid can be tempting, but the costs of improper restoration far outweigh any short-term savings. Masonry work that uses the wrong materials or techniques can trap moisture, leading to cracking, spalling, and structural issues that are expensive to fix. Poor workmanship also diminishes the appearance and historic character of the building.

When selecting a masonry restoration company, look for:

  • Extensive experience with historic buildings and traditional masonry techniques.
  • Knowledge of material properties and compatibility.
  • Understanding of Ontario’s unique climate conditions and their effects on masonry.
  • Commitment to quality workmanship and attention to detail.
  • Excellent references and examples of successful past projects.

At Fix My Brick, we pride ourselves on our masonry expertise, dedication to preserving Ontario’s built heritage, and ability to deliver exceptional results on every project. If you’re looking for skilled masons who will treat your building with the care and respect it deserves, contact us to discuss your restoration needs.


Frequently Asked Questions

  1. How often should I have my masonry building inspected?
    • We recommend having your masonry inspected every 1-2 years to catch any deterioration early. Older or more complex buildings may require more frequent inspections.
  2. What are the signs that my building needs repointing?
    • Crumbling, cracked, or missing mortar; loose or spalling bricks; and moisture staining on interior walls are all indications that repointing is needed. If you notice any of these issues, contact a qualified masonry restoration professional to assess the extent of the damage.
  3. Can I repoint my masonry myself?
    • While some minor repointing tasks can be DIY projects, most masonry restoration work is best left to skilled professionals. Improper techniques or materials can cause further damage to your building.
  4. How long does masonry restoration take?
    • The timeline depends on the size and condition of your building, but most projects take several weeks to a few months. Your masonry contractor should provide an estimated schedule before beginning work.
  5. Will repointing change the appearance of my building?
    • A skilled mason will work to match the color, texture, and style of your original mortar joints for a seamless repair. In some cases, slightly mismatched repointing is preferable to show the history of the building.
  6. How much does masonry restoration cost?
    • Costs vary widely depending on the level of deterioration, accessibility, and materials needed. Always request a detailed quote from your masonry restoration contractor that breaks down the scope of work and associated costs. While quality restoration is an investment, it pays off in the long-term preservation and value of your property.
This image shows a textured wall surface composed of a mix of exposed brick and plaster. The brick portion features rows of reddish-orange bricks, some of which are partially crumbling or damaged, creating an aged and weathered appearance. The plaster area has a rough, uneven texture with visible cracks and discoloration, giving the overall wall a distressed, vintage aesthetic. The contrast between the brick and plaster creates an interesting visual texture and a sense of the wall's history.

Concrete Bricks vs. Clay Bricks: Which is Better for Durability?

Clay Brick vs. Concrete Block

When compared to other forms of construction, the durability and resistance of masonry structures is seldom questioned. Masonry systems have stood the test of time, and rightfully earned a reputation for resilience against the elements. Considering even man-made perils, such as fire, masonry still consistently outperforms all other constructions; resisting against outright destruction which is characteristic of wood frame buildings, and outlasting the warping and ultimate collapse of steel-skeleton structures. Notwithstanding these irrefutable benefits, a masonry structure’s environmental and mechanical resistance will naturally vary and depend on the construction method and the materials employed.

Clay Brick

Undoubtedly one of the most fundamental and durable building materials ever invented, clay bricks have been used in construction for thousands of years. The method of construction and materials have been perfected over centuries, and the durability of clay brick is dependent on the following five factors:

1. The quality of the raw/fabrication material;
2. The manufacturing process and firing condition;
3. The resultant properties of the hardened brick;
4. The conditions to which the bricks were exposed since construction; and
5. The rate of maintenance and repair.

The naturally-occurring raw material known as raw clay consists of a complex mixture of minerals in varying proportions. Production begins with selection of the clay materials and ends with the firing of the clay units; with mixing, molding and drying occurring in between. Optimal proportions of sand, clay and water along with the drying and firing temperature are integral to the quality of the hardened brick.

The clay’s composition and the manufacturing process significantly affect the dimension and distribution of the brick’s pores which has a significant impact on its durability. Consequently, treatments to enhance durability after construction is reduced to acting on external conditions – as changing the brick’s composition post-production is not possible. Preventing the invasion of water in to the brick’s mass, controlling moisture and managing the brick’s salt content are the main methods of managing the brick’s exposure to harmful conditions and increasing its durability.

Concrete

Unlike clay brickwork, concrete block masonry is a relatively recent development which started being used as a building material in the mid-19th century. Concrete block walls provide sound structural resistance along with thermal and acoustic insulation all while accommodating for fast and easy installations – facilitated by the block’s precise unit measurements and modular characteristics.

Concrete blocks are composed of Portland cement, aggregates and water with production being highly automated in large industrial plants. The mix of materials is placed in a metallic mold, vibrated in to shape, and cured at an average temperature of 70°C for up to 18 hours. The durability of concrete block masonry is less dependant on externalities, and more on design and construction errors. While concrete can fall susceptible to things like efflorescence (the migration of salts from the interior to the surface material of the masonry) the effects are mainly aesthetic, and without compromise to structural integrity. Furthermore, pathologies can be prevented by deploying low-absorption blocks with high compressive strength and rebar protection.

While both concrete blocks and clay bricks can serve similar functions, skilled masons understand the inherent strengths and weaknesses which influence the conditions in which they are deployed.

Source: Ghiassi, Bahman, and Lourenc̦o Paulo B. Long-Term Performance and Durability of Masonry Structures: Degradation Mechanisms, Health Monitoring and Service Life Design. Woodhead Publishing, 2019.

Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. What are the key differences between clay bricks and concrete blocks?
    • Clay bricks are traditional building materials used for thousands of years, made from natural clay and fired in kilns. They offer excellent durability, aesthetic appeal, and moisture control. Concrete blocks are modern alternatives made from cement, aggregates, and water, known for their structural strength, thermal and acoustic insulation, and ease of installation.
  2. How does the manufacturing process affect the durability of clay bricks and concrete blocks?
    • The durability of clay bricks depends on the quality of clay, the firing temperature, and the manufacturing process, which influences their porosity and strength. For concrete blocks, the mix of materials and the curing process are crucial, impacting their compressive strength and resistance to environmental factors.
  3. Can clay bricks and concrete blocks be used interchangeably in construction?
    • While both can be used for building structures, the choice depends on specific project requirements such as load-bearing capacity, insulation needs, and aesthetic preferences. Clay bricks are preferred for their visual appeal and longevity, whereas concrete blocks are favored for structural projects requiring uniformity and quick installation.
  4. What maintenance strategies enhance the durability of clay bricks?
    • Maintaining clay bricks involves managing moisture through proper sealing, controlling salt content to prevent efflorescence, and regular inspections to assess any degradation. These steps help in prolonging the life and appearance of clay brick structures.
  5. How can construction errors affect the longevity of concrete block structures?
    • Construction errors like improper mixing ratios, inadequate curing, and poor installation techniques can lead to issues such as efflorescence and reduced structural integrity. Ensuring quality control during the construction process and using blocks with appropriate absorption and strength characteristics are vital.
  6. What are some common pathologies in concrete blocks and how can they be prevented?
    • Pathologies in concrete blocks often include efflorescence and moisture-related issues which are mainly aesthetic but can sometimes affect structural integrity. Using low-absorption blocks, ensuring proper rebar protection, and employing adequate waterproofing measures can prevent these problems
This image depicts a grand, historic building with a classical architectural style. The building has a prominent central portico with columns and a pediment, surrounded by wings on either side. The exterior is a light, neutral color with ornate details and decorative elements. The building is set against a backdrop of lush, green trees, and is situated on a well-manicured lawn. The overall scene conveys a sense of grandeur and stately elegance.

Hamilton’s Heritage: A Detailed Look at Its Famous Masonry Architecture

Along with Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, Ontario is one of the original provinces, and in 1867 it formed part of the federated colony which was to become a sovereign nation. Although not known for its architectural qualities and still quite young compared to it’s global, sovereign confederates, Ontario is home to some of Canada’s oldest and most unique structures.

Among these historic and celebrated structures is Dundurn Castle, the 18,000 square-foot neoclassical mansion located on York Boulevard in Hamilton Ontario. The castle was raised over a period of 3 years -ending in 1835 – and its construction costs totaled $175,000; equivalent today to over $6,000,000. Established at the former site of a British military encampment, the castle’s heritage and stunning masonry façade overlooks the city of Hamilton, while the back graciously faces Burlington Bay.

Hamilton’s masonry marvel is situated on grounds which feature many historically and architecturally significant structures; their heritage value lying in their Italianate, Gothic revival and Classical style design and in the prominent politician and businessman, Sir Alan Napier MacNab for whom they were built. The prominent and picturesque qualities of the buildings and landscape include the 19th century front entrance gates which were originally imported from England and the stone pillars which were cut from the Dundas Mountain.

Purchased by the city of Hamilton in 1900 and receiving a significant investment for the renovation of its brick construction, the castle’s halls and rooms along with their characteristic panoramic views are now open to the public.

Hamilton’s ancient architectural implications extend to the English Gothic style St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church: designed by one of the founders of the Canadian architectural profession, William Thomas.  Receiving his architectural training in England, the Anglo-Canadian architect was renowned for designing some of the finest decorated Gothic Revival architecture in Canada. St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church – erected over the years from 1854 to 1857 – boasts a spire that now towers over neighboring structures at 180 feet, and the church holds the title for the highest steeple sculpted entirely out of stone in Canada.

Features like the cut-stone masonry and meticulously-proportioned buttresses which reinforce the corners of the tower contribute to preserving its provincial and municipal heritage.  With most of the church’s grey limestone being sourced from Hamilton’s quarries, it is regarded as one of Hamilton’s finest masonry buildings, and was federally designated as a National Historic Site in Canada.

Hamilton’s lands bear some of Ontario’s richest stone-cut masonry formations, dating back to the early days of Canadian settlement, and confederation. With many locations being designated as National Historic Sites, the city has dedicated considerable resources to maintain, repair and restore its historically significant masonry structures.

Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. What is Dundurn Castle and why is it significant?
    • Dundurn Castle is an 18,000 square-foot neoclassical mansion built in 1835 in Hamilton, Ontario. It is significant for its architectural style, historical heritage, and its connection to Sir Alan Napier MacNab, a prominent Canadian politician and businessman.
  2. How much did it cost to build Dundurn Castle, and what would that be equivalent to today?
    • The construction of Dundurn Castle cost $175,000 in the 1830s, which is equivalent to over $6,000,000 today, reflecting its grandeur and historical importance.
  3. What architectural styles are prominent in Hamilton’s historic structures?
    • Hamilton’s historic structures feature a variety of architectural styles, including Italianate, Gothic Revival, and Classical, each contributing to the city’s rich architectural heritage.
  4. What is unique about St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church in Hamilton?
    • St. Paul’s Presbyterian Church is renowned for having the highest steeple made entirely of stone in Canada and is a prime example of English Gothic Revival architecture designed by William Thomas, a pioneer in Canadian architecture.
  5. How are Hamilton’s historic buildings preserved?
    • Many of Hamilton’s historic buildings are federally designated as National Historic Sites and undergo regular maintenance, repair, and restoration to preserve their structural integrity and historical value.
  6. Why are Hamilton’s historic masonry buildings important to Canadian heritage?
    • Hamilton’s masonry buildings are important to Canadian heritage due to their historical significance, architectural beauty, and their role in representing early Canadian settlement and confederation, making them key sites of national pride and historical education.
The image shows the iconic Colosseum in Rome, Italy, illuminated at night. The massive ancient Roman amphitheater is made of stone and features numerous arched entrances and windows. The exterior walls are lit up, creating a warm, golden glow that contrasts with the deep blue of the night sky. The Colosseum's distinctive architecture and grandeur are prominently displayed, showcasing its historical significance and architectural beauty.

The Foundations of Masonry: A Detailed Look at Its History and Monumental Structures – Part 1

The art of masonry dates back to the earliest moments in human civilization, when out of need, man sought to supplement the rare, naturally-occurring caves with artificial structures created from piles of stone. The natural availability of stones has been responsible for their early use and contribution to the oldest known structures in human history. This early form of construction was comprised of dry masonry rubble with stones of various sizes being stacked on top of each other to create walls; smaller stones were used to fill empty voids, with mud sometimes being used to bind the stones together. Over time, bricks were created from local clay and silts – as stones were not always available – and by the 4th millennium BC, ancient civilizations including the Mesopotamian people, were constructing palaces and temples of stone and sun-dried brick.

As human civilization continued to advanced, so did ancient masons and their mastering of the art to quarry, cut and hand chisel stone with increasing precision. We need not look far to appreciate the skill and fortitude demonstrated by ancient masons to erect some of the most impressive structures still standing today. The Egyptians, for one, constructed the pyramids at Giza roughly 4,500 years ago in the 3rd millennium, with the largest of the three towering over 480 feet, and built out of an estimated 2.3 million lime stone blocks, each weighing an average 2.5 to 15 tons. They used granite for the construction of the roofs and walls of the burial chambers, and gypsum as mortar, despite it having almost no binding properties.

The choice of masonry materials throughout history has been influenced mainly by availability and prevailing geological formations and conditions of surrounding areas. The ancient Egyptians relied mainly on limestone, sandstone, alabaster, granite and basalt, quarried from the hills along the Nile River, while in the last centuries leading up to the birth of Christ, the Greeks were sourcing materials for mud-brick locally, and also constructing temples of limestone and marble. Among them was the Parthenon, which was completed in 438 BC. With a limestone foundation and a roof covered with large overlapping marble, the Parthenon has been regarded as the finest example of Greek architecture and construction, with many aspects of the structure praised in terms of their precision and innovative design.

Our discussion would not be complete without a mention of the Great Wall of China, the construction of which began roughly around this same time period. Demanding transportation of over 100 million tonnes of brick and a labour force comprised of soldiers, peasants, slaves and animals, it remains today as one of the most impressive feats of engineering and masonry construction. As the longest building on earth (6,350 kilometers) the wall consists of several sections that differ in age and construction method. In its early construction, the wall was mainly built from rammed earth, stones and wood; however, during the Ming dynasty (1368–1644), brick and stone started to replace tamped earth, due to the superior durability and protection it provided – most of the wall as it remains today dates from the Ming dynasty.
By 117 AD, control of Europe was ceded to the Romans and evidence of their stone, roman brick and concrete engineering remains scattered across their land and once-occupied colonies. Their meticulous masonry techniques can be seen in structures like the Colosseum, which was build mainly of travertine limestone with a core brick. In their ancient brickyards, the Romans produced fired clay bricks – replacing earlier sun-dried mud bricks –which featured longer and flatter dimensions than those of standard modern brick. Roman concrete also differed from modern concrete due to the incorporation of volcanic ash to provide fracture resisting properties, and create what some have called the most durable building material in human history.

Although advancements in masonry have been made throughout the millennia, the basic principles of stone, aggregate or brick combined with a binding material remain the same. It comes to no surprise that the most notable historical structures in human history still standing today were raised out of durable masonry materials. In the next part of our series, we will continue to explore how masonry construction has evolved throughout history, and dive in to the details of the industrial revolution, and its radical effects on the way modern masonry structures are built.

This image shows the hands of a mason or bricklayer working on constructing a brick wall. The image focuses on the worker's hands, which are calloused and covered in mortar, as they carefully place a brick into the wall. The wall is made of red and brown bricks that are laid in a traditional pattern, with mortar visible between the bricks. The background is slightly blurred, but appears to be a construction site or outdoor area.

Property Insurance for Masonry Buildings: A Quick Guide

As the most populous province in Canada, Ontarians are known for many things; unfortunately, low insurance costs is not one of them. Experts predict that the long, soft market for property insurance (a period of low insurance rates & premiums) is coming to an end, which will bring about a rise in property insurance rates, and ultimately higher premiums for homeowners across Canada. What can we do as homeowners, and property insurance buyers to lock in our rates with our insurance brokers, and possibly even see rate reductions on our policies?

To evaluate the factors affecting our property insurance premiums, it is first important to understand the underwriting process. Underwriting is the act of signing, and accepting liability, thus guaranteeing payment in the event of a loss or damage to an owner’s property. When an underwriter reviews a property risk – in our case as homeowners, our homes – they look at a number of aspects; among them, is what is called COPE information.

Construction – The construction of the property,e.g. wood frame, steel frame, masonry, etc…

Occupancy – The occupant of the property, e.g. residential or commercial.

Protection – Fire protection factors such as fire hydrants and fire stations.

Exposure – Neighbouring exposures that present their own risk to the property.

In this discussion, we will focus on Construction, and more importantly the class of buildings that are erected out of brick and mortar. This is arguably the most important factor in rating a homeowner’s insurance policy, and masonry structures stand out as some of the most reliable, and fire-resistive components in home building. Combined with a steel frame, and other fire-resistive materials, masonry structures can see significant savings when compared to wood frame properties with siding. It is not unheard of for insurance premiums on masonry built homes to be half of those on wood frame homes for the same insurance coverage.

Among other factors underwriters consider when pricing property insurance policies, are when the home was last updated. Updates to consider are electrical, roof, plumbing and structural tech-wonders. Updating your home to maintain its structural integrity can even qualify you for enhanced coverage, offering protection against a broader range of natural perils and hazards. Fixing chimneys along with porches and walkways can be a unique way to reduce your policy’s liability premium – the premium paid for liability coverage; in which the buyer is protected in case they become liable for a third party’s injury such as a slip and fall. Individuals are often asked to send pictures of their homes to the underwriters for review. A well-managed property, free of clutter and visible damage is likely to sit well with the underwriter’s criteria and be factored favourably in to his pricing.

Preserving the functional integrity of your property and restoring areas where signs of age and damage are apparent, can reduce the premium on your property and liability insurance coverage. Whether you are considering a new build, or contemplating renovating or repairing an existing structure, employing the right masons can have a significant impact on your home’s aesthetics, value and the costs of your insurance policy

Frequently Asked Questions:

  1. Why are insurance premiums for masonry-built homes often lower?
    • Masonry-built homes are generally considered more fire-resistant and durable than wood-frame homes, which can lead to lower insurance premiums due to reduced risk.
  2. What is COPE information and how does it affect my property insurance premium?
    • COPE stands for Construction, Occupancy, Protection, and Exposure. These factors are assessed during the underwriting process to determine the risk and appropriate premium for insuring a property.
  3. How can updating my home affect my insurance premiums?
    • Updating key components like electrical systems, roofing, and plumbing can reduce perceived risks, potentially qualifying you for lower premiums and enhanced coverage options.
  4. What kind of updates can specifically reduce liability premiums?
    • Fixing structural elements such as chimneys, porches, and walkways can minimize hazards that lead to injuries, thereby reducing the liability premium of your insurance policy.
  5. What should I provide to my insurance underwriter for a favorable review?
    • Providing clear, updated photographs of your property that show well-maintained, clutter-free areas can positively influence an underwriter’s assessment of your property’s risk level.
  6. How does the construction material of my home impact my insurance rates?